I Got the Best Massage by a Thai Ex -Prisoner

When I decided to go to Thailand, I began my trek down the rabbit hole of blogs to learn about this much talked about exotic country. Long tail boat rides, swimming off the coast of Ko Samui, eating “just off the grill” street food in Bangkok, trekking through the humid jungles of Northern Thailand and visiting the ancient spiritual Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai. I couldn’t wait to check all these boxes and learn more about the traditions of this part of Southeast Asia. So, it’s no surprise that I couldn’t wait to experience my first Thai massage. As an avid lover of deep tissue and Swedish massage, I couldn’t wait to try this UNESCO Cultural Heritage Humanity List experience for the long cost of $7. or 250 baht an hour.

Now, I didn’t plan to go crazy with these luxurious massage experiences, I do have a budget to consider. But three a week seemed reasonable. After all, most of us spend that on a week’s worth of Starbucks coffee. So, my initiation to my first Thai massage started a few days after I recovered from the intense jet lag of a 36-hour flight from the states.

Admittedly, I didn’t spend a lot of time reading up on Thai Massage. Sometimes, when I overprepare it sets expectations. Better to be surprised! I learned when you walk into a Thai massage parlor, you have the many options available to you. First, walk -ins are encouraged. Next, you can do an oil massage, aka, deep tissue massage to us, a Foot, Neck, Shoulder Massage, Herbal Massage and of course the traditional Thai Massage.

The best way I can describe a Thai massage is that you are an active participant in this experience. Where we might often find ourselves laying on a table like a sleeping buddha while the massage therapist manipulates our muscles and gives us that feeling of Ah…. A Thai massage is more engaging with a lot more ugh, oh! and is this position going to land me in the hospital.

First, Thai massage is practiced completely clothed. Loose fitting garments are encouraged, but no worries, if you don’t remember to wear them, they provide them for you. An additional bonus, a foot wash is done before you walk into the salon. You remove your shoes, and the lovely women proceed to wash your feet with sugar scrub and give you a fresh pair of slippers to wear. It reminds me of what my son’s Montessori school used to require of the children before they entered the classroom. This act of compassion contributes to the peace and serenity of the experience. Plus, it leaves the dirt outside.

Next, they give you a set of loose-fitting linen pants and top to wear. Usher you to a bathroom or sometimes have you change on the bed behind a set of curtains. Once your fully clothed your feet are washed, they have you lay down, think of it more as a low-platform bed, Ikea style.

Thai massage is uniquely different in that you are more involved in the process. It’s a traditional form of massage in Thailand that combines acupressure, Indian Ayurvedic principles and yoga postures. There is no oil or lotion, often no soft music and you are typically in a large room with many other people being manipulated, pulled, stretched, and popped.

Several weeks, and many massages later, while staying in the Northern city of Chiang Mai, I learned of a wonderful social enterprise called the Women’s Massage Center by Ex-Prisoners. This vocational program, under the umbrella of Dignity Network, a non-profit focused on helping female ex-inmates to reintegrate into professional society. This program, launched by Thierry Gallo, a Brussels Entrepreneur, who first came to Thailand in 2010 and learned about the harsh conditions of women in Thai prisons, decided to start a program that would help Thai women learn a skill they can adopt into society after serving their time.

After a 2km walk from my apartment, I made it to the Women’s Massage Center, eager to learn more about this reformative initiative and talk with one of the ladies who currently works as a Thai Masseur. In tandem with all my other Thai massage experiences, this one was similar and, in many ways, better. The location is off a side street in Old City Chiang Mai, passed the vocational school, street vendors and makeshift shops. Unassuming with no flashy tourist signs, this increased my desire to learn more.

I was greeted with the formal foot washing, given slippers, and introduced to Chuanpit, my massage specialist for the next hour. She was outstanding. After my glorious foot, shoulder, and head massage, I asked if we could spend a few minutes talking about her life in prison and how this program has made a difference for her.

Currently, Thailand's female incarceration rate is the world's highest at 66.4 female convicts per 100,000 inhabitants, exceeding that of US rates. Women make up 14% of the prison population. Over 82% of women in Thai prisons are there because of drugs and over 90% of these women are crystal meth or amphetamine users. This means that the current Thai laws respond to addiction by incarceration vs. treatment.

When I sat down with Chauanpit, I learned she was one of the many women who served “hard time” for selling amphetamines. Not a drug user or addict, Chauanpit was arrested and sentenced to 25 years for her crime but served eleven. During that time, she was selected to attend and get formal training in Thai massage while in prison. This opportunity served her well in that 6 years later, she only wishes to take care of her family and to live a good life.

I spoke with Thunyanun Yajom or “Jinny” the manager of the program. A veteran Officer of the Government with 15 years of experience, Jinny is a psychologist and holds a master’s degree in vocational education from Chiang Mai University. I could tell she is enthusiastic about her work and believes that these types of programs can make all the difference for Thai women staying out of prison and away from the drug trade.

Sadly, because of COVID, the Dignity Network had 5 locations offering 50 or more female ex-prisoners the opportunity to receive vocational training in Thai Massage. Today, 2 years later, their numbers have dwindled to eight women and one open center.

Travel has afforded me, as a white woman of privilege, the opportunity to glimpse into the harsh realities of women in other cultures. I am grateful to meet such inspiring women and engage with this social entrepreneurial program designed to help give new life to others.

If you find yourself in Chiang Mai, I strongly encourage a trip to the Women’s Massage Center by Ex-Prisoners. There are no reservations necessary, walk-ins are welcomed, and you will receive 5-star treatment from some incredibly special women.